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Jay & Linda's Amazing Bruges Beer Fest Weekend
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- Written by: Jason Baxter
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Our first day in town was a mix of old favourites and new spots, kicking things off with the one and only and best house beer around

A bit of food and Linda had booked us in at a restaurant that we've walked past countless times (on our way to Rudy's old bar) and the first of two new locations used in the film In Bruges...Diligence



Flemish Carbonnade (first of many) and Spaghetti Bolognaise

Our final bar of the day and there could be only one...my No1



Heading back to our hotel we had to make a little pitstop at our favourite little wooden food truck (always the one on the right) and the guy serving said it's great to see us again and that we were missed last year - it's not just the people in bars who remember your faces

Walking back to our hotel the night was so peaceful, beautifully quiet and not a breath of wind

Bedtime for now folks...tomorrow we venture out with Filip and Katrien plus the bottle share
Our road trip out and bottle share 

10.30am and we're off, so after meeting up just across from our hotel at the fish market we hit the road and set off on our journey towards the Watou region of Belgium...we were St Bernardus bound
After an hours journey across the picturesque Western corner of beautiful Belgium, so far to the West that we were close to the French border (in fact me, Filip and Linda each got a text saying welcome to France
) we turned into the imposing St Bernardus brewery.
Upon entering you're met with a large souvenir shop that was richly filled with beer, cheeses, pate's, clothing and various beerphanalia...beers, pate and a rather cool St Bernardus t-shirt were bought.
It was then upstairs to the ultra modern open plan restaurant for some food and a beer, the large floor to ceiling glass walls proving picturesque views across the Watou countryside and luckily enough they managed to squeeze us in, this place was packed
Beer first with me picking something new, a 6% Belgian Blonde Ale brewed with lemon verbena and fennel...quite citrusy and herbal
Food time with Linda, Filip and Katrien opting for glorious looking platters and myself going for the Flemish Carbonnade prepared with St Bernardus ABT12 and served in a cauldron sized portion
After that most delicious lunch (great food, great beer and great company) we explored the outside rooftop terrace and my the views were nothing short of spectacular. From here we had panoramic vistas of the surrounding countryside, hop vines and even nearby France


Time to move on and it was the short journey to that most iconic of rural Belgian countryside bars - Helleketel, this place really is that bit special

The bar area was particularly busy but we found a table by the bar and to my delight owner Lena came over and took our orders (luckily Filip was on hand, no way would she understand my northern accent
) I went for the very fitting Helleketel from De Bie with Linda choosing a local drink Picon and Filip choosing a Yvegem Bruin (I can't remember what beer Katrien chose
)

This place just oozes masses of local charm, ancient quirkiness and is steeped in decades of beery history. This is the kind of place I'd never tire of visiting, it really is Watou's answer to Beertje

Vintage jukebox playing vintage music, free to play

The bar cat was quickly in my seat as I took the above picture 

Time to head back to Bruges and get ready for tonights beer swap but WHAT a day it had been, to visit these far corners of Belgium is undoubtedly our highlight of the weekend. We've been on some mad adventures over the years (with many more to come
) with each and every one a cherished memory I'll hold in my heart forever, THANK YOU Filip and Katrien from both of us
It's beer swap time folks 
The 13th Annual Bruges Beer Swap was taking place again at the some fantastic location of Brewery Bourgogne Des Flanders, so conveniently situated being less than a 2 minute walk from our hotel.
After missing out last year it was wonderful to once again meet up with Rudy and Marina and we were instantly welcomed back as returning friends with much hugs. It was also great to meet up with Stephen and Catherine from Scotland, the two year absence gone instantly.
Many more familiar faces turned up all loaded down with beer and all excited about the nights beery adventures.
Beers were placed on the bar top but we also had use of the fridges in the on site tasting room, this way beers that needed it could be served refrigerated
Both myself and Linda agreed that this was the most relaxed, informal and laidback beer swap yet. The entire evening was just a room filled with friends old and new happily sharing beers and chatting the night away...no fussiness, no awkwardness, it was just perfect
Pics of the evenings antics, lots and lots of delicious beers sampled.
A delicious Straffe Hendrik Wild courtesy of Filip, it was filled with beautiful Orval Bretty notes, so delicious in fact I bought a bottle to bring home ![]()

A couple of special limited edition bottles

A couple of special vintage beers from Rudy


Amongst the many people from across Europe and beyond was Ron Smith from Indiana, he had brought a selection of beers from his local brewery Sun King - unique beers in unique bottles, this included my beer of the evening...the utterly delicious Dubai Chocolate, a stunning 14.7% Barrel Aged Pistachio and Chocolate Imperial Stout, for my this was approaching perfection 


A couple more including the new BAB 403 brought by Marc and fellow members

So there we have some happy snap shots of a most memorable beer swap - beer, friends, happy chatting, laughter...what more could you wish for 
Now then after visiting the frites stall (but of course
) Linda suggested one last nightcap but in a bar we've never visited before, yet one we've walked past countless times and one she's long wanted to visit 

Indeed we have walked past it many times (on our way to La Trapiste) and another location used in the film In Bruges - 't Zwart Huis


What an absolutely beautiful bar this is, a large open plan wood panelled room filled with ornate glass chandeliers and imposing stone fireplaces, this is a bar we would be returning to.
To sit here just drinking in both the beer and the stunning location as we recapped on the most perfect day was the absolute perfect ending.
It's festival day folks 
So after visiting the supermarket to stock up on on snacks and water we made our way to the festival and joined the long "fast lane" line - it seemed like everyone had bought "fast lane" tickets because this lane was maybe 150-200 strong (luckily we were near the front) whereas the general entrance had maybe 30 people queueing.
10 minutes later than advertised they opened the festival and opened all the doors letting everyone in at the same time BUT because our line was so much longer we had to wait, still stood in line as the general entrance cleared...so much for a "fast lane"
Nevermind we're in and found a spot by the entrance to sit and choose our first beer, Linda picking a very tasty Tripel and me...a Westvleteren 12, amazing that there were no customers at the Trappist stall.
It was whilst enjoying our beers that to our surprise Katrien appeared telling us to join their table and so the gang from the previous night were back together.
What followed was filled with great beer, great friends and great chatter, the next 4 hours flew by. Beers were shared with some hitting the spot and others a clear miss (Stephen picking a Black Garlic Stout from Totem...it stank of dark sticky garlic)
One that was a hit was from De Struise and it seemed like they were on the Omnipollo bandwagon serving slushy beers
not quite as well executed but nice to see non the less and Linda picked a Black Albert Baileys Slush - 13% Black Albert topped with a frozen Baileys/beer head topping....it tasted delicious. My choice was Black Albert Chocolate Hazelnut Slush, pure Nutella in a glass.


By pure chance we were sat next to a salami display from Marcassou out of the Ardennes, they had a wonderful stand done up like a woodland (complete with large inflatable wild boar head) and even a game involving falling salami.
They were even handing out free packets of their salami which were totally delicious, it seemed like every time I got up for a beer I was handed a pack and brought several home with me. I've even cooked with them adding them to a dish of rice and vegetables 
https://www.marcassou.be/fr/home

A much better offering from Totem - their 10% Gingerbread Imperial Stout
Now this was stunning, from Perennial out of St Louis it was their barrel aged Sump, a thumping 12.7% Imperial Stout aged 12 months in Rittenhouse Rye Whiskey Barrels with Sump coffee
With some many dark heavy beers it was time to bow out with a Rhubarb Triple, I loved it, Linda not too sure 

And with that it was time to head back to our hotel to get ready for the evening - mucho mucho goodbyes

That evening we were booked in at Cambrinus but first we nipped around the corner to Hotel Rose Red as as always it was packed but we found a couple of seats at the bar and ordered ourselves a couple of amazing Tripels

Food time so it was off to Cambrinus for a delicious steak and Linda their platter (so great to nibble on) and beer, well as always I went for a Steenuilke

Bellies filled we then headed in the direction of the Halve Maan brewery to a bar Linda wanted to visit and my this place was quirky...Bieratelier
As you enter the bar you're greeted with a low ceiling adorned with hundreds of women's Bra's, it was quite the shock let me tell (much to Linda's laughter)

Making your way through the small bar to the back room it too was quite the surprise with the walls covered in beer mats complete with messages from across the globe written on the back, we of course Linda added our own



Beer and Linda chose large with a tasting plank, it's not often we do this but it was fun to try all the beers from tap
What a fun and quirky bar this was, would we visit again...most definitely 
Well good people it's now Sunday and our final full day in Bruges before we head home tomorrow (and boy was that some day) but today as always we take things at a slower pace.
So as is now tradition we pay a visit to Vlissinghe for our lunch, on the way we had a look at The Red Hunter a bar situated next door to 't Terrastje but sadly it was closed (next time)

Now Vlissinghe opens at 11am and we were there by 11.10am and it was already so busy but we got a seat and ordered our lunch - for me it was root vegetable soup and Linda Croque Boem Boem, both completely delicious.



Now it may not be the "beeriest" bar in Bruges but that's not what it's about, it's wonderful homemade food in one of the most ancient locations, you really do feel like your stepping back in time and we love the place.
Talking about beer you can't come here at not order the house beer "Cafe Vlissinghe" an 8% Amber Ale brewed at nearby Fort Lapin
After that perfect lunch we made our way back into town via the windmills and back up Langestraat. As we made our way through the Burg we were near another much loved ancient looking bar so we may as well pay a visit 






Seeing as this was our last full day and our last chance to stock up on goodies we did much shopping then it was time to head back to our hotel in readiness for tomorrows journey home.
Later on it was time to head out and hit a couple of our favourite bars, first off was another visit to 't Zwart Huis. This place really does have a very ornate and opulent interior and even though they were gearing up for a busy food service we were made to feel most welcome and after ordering a couple of delicious beers some beer snacks were ordered (Linda and myself finding a new found love for Bitterballen)




Now where else could we finish the night, the one and only Beertje and I of course picked a couple of stunners accompanied by a tasty nibbling platter



It was whilst we were in Beertje that Stephen and Catherine came in and sat with us, we had a wonderful time chatting about the weekend and much much more, such great people
What a wonderful final day it had been, there's only one way to round it off



Cheers folks, our final last moments in Bruges to come
There was just enough time to squeeze in one last beer and finish this magnificent day off in style...Beertje, De Dolle and Frites - that is how you bid goodnight

Today we head home 
So with bags packed to the very max and safely stored at the hotel until we leave we headed off out to pick up the last few treats for our Jess and Anna - chocolates a plenty carefully tucked away in my backpack we found a spot at a nearby cafe and chatted about what a wonderful trip this had been.
Great hot chocolate and Cappuccino at Olivier's Chocolate Shop & Bar
Seeing as time was ticking away we just couldn't leave town without one last visit to a certain bar to have one last try of Linda's No1 beer

As we left De Garre we were in need of food so headed back towards the Burg Square and past The Lovers statue (Cambrinus bound) and this is when I received a phone call from the Doctors with the results of my recent blood test. It turns out that I'm suffering from Anemia this is due to low vitamin B12 and also vitamin D (that would explain my fatigue) the Doctor also explained the two week course of injections that I'd need...wowser.
We continued to Cambrinus and just sat there trying to take in this news (we're due to leave in just a couple of hours) we ordered a beer and food and worked out how this would affect us as a family.
Belgian Beer and Onion Soup coupled with a Westmalle Extra

All good things must come to an end, time to start our journey home
so after retrieving our suitcases we headed to Brugge train station in a taxi and in no time at all we were making our way to our platform.
As we sat down waiting for our train Linda shouted out "where's my handbag?" we each had a suitcase and backpack but she was missing her handbag

The thing is it contained not only her purse and money but our passports, how the hell would we get home?
She said she remembered taking it off but where...was it at the hotel, the cafe, De Garre, Cambrinus AND what if someone had picked it up - panic overwhelmed us, our train was due in about 45 minutes and what about our flight home.
Linda told me to stay put with all the bags and she would head back into town to search for it (lets face it with two heavy suitcases I'd only slow her down) so she raced off and I was left alone surrounded with bags.
It was one of the most torturous half hours ever, we kept in touch and I followed her on my phone but I felt totally helpless - then as our train pulled into the station a large crowd
appeared on the platform and at the back of them was Linda complete WITH handbag.
Amazingly she had managed to get back into the centre of Brugge and retrace our steps visiting both Olivier's and De Garre before trying Cambrinus and the woman who had been serving us had noticed it on the back of her chair when we left so put it behind the bar for safe keeping. No one had interfered with it or took it, quite amazing in a crowded bar, unattended it could have vanished forever in an instant....a massive thank you to Cambrinus, its honest customers and to the lady who served us we have a debt of gratitude and Linda had done this and got back to me with seconds to spare - after a relaxing 4 days the last couple of hours proved frantic, the phone call from the Doctors had knocked us sideways, we always check before leaving but our minds were on other things.
So there we have it, an unforgettable Brugge Beer Festival (and much more) weekend. There will be many many more to come and many more trips away...first it's Lithuania next month then Malta in February and the back to Copenhagen for MBCC, you're with me on each adventure
Cheers
Jay
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